At minimum I prefer a ½ sheet for 16” OC framing, while others I know will go no less than 5/8 or ¾. This is also one reason why you may wish to consider bumping your sheathing up past code minimums & going with a thicker panel. (For example the assembly needs to be able to resist anywhere from a-29 PSF force at the corners, while the center area should be able to resist a -24 PSF.The bulk of damage from wind hitting a building straight on is actually caused by debris penetrating the structure which is why many coastal communities require “hurricane” glass or some other form of protection. While one would assume the most damage from the winds comes from the wind hitting the building, most damage sustained comes from the wind hitting the building at an angle where it can get behind the siding and essentially peel it off.The next biggest area of damage actually is on the backside of the building where the suction forces created can easily rip off most sidings & even foam board. For most residential structures the most typical materials used now are OSB or plywood while in some commercial wall assemblies a specialized gypsum type product is used. ![]() If I had to sum up sheathing I would refer to it as A material used to enclose & protect the structure (along with its contents) which also helps provides the needed structural stiffness & backing required by that assembly. ![]() Collar ties, contrary to popular belief, do not prevent walls from spreading.For most builders & crews the biggest question when it comes to sheathing a wall is “should we do it while the wall is being framed on the ground, or after we have stood it up?” For others that have to add foam on the exterior, some start to wonder, “if I need to add this insulated foam board, do I really need to use wood sheathing everywhere or can the foam replace some of it?” With all the changing codes many are starting to also wonder, is what we did in the past still the best method, or are there easier & better means to do it now? Unlike OVE where the premise is primarily on reducing the amount of studs or wood used in a wall, the basic premise behind Optimized Framing Techniques is taking the best framing techniques that fit the house you are building & utilizing them to not only save resources but to also have a strong, durable structure that uses a minimal amount of connectors required by other techniques.Where they are required, they should be installed on every other rafter where rafters are on 24-inch centers.Collar ties are probably not needed if approved metal connectors were used to fasten the rafters to the ridge.InterNACHI inspectors should not call out a lack of collar ties as a defect unless they know that collar ties were required in the jurisdiction where the home is located at the time the home was built. They may or may not be required, depending on the jurisdiction.In high-wind areas, uplift can tear a roof off of a house if it's not properly attached.Ĭollar ties and ridge straps should be installed on roof with a minimum slope of 3:12, a maximum wind speed of 100 miles per hour, and a maximum roof span of 36 feet. They must be spaced no more than 4 feet (1219 mm) apart. They must be at least 1 inch by 4 inches (25 mm by 102 mm). If collar ties or ridge straps are installed to connect opposing rafters, they must be located in the upper third of the attic space. Ridge straps are permitted to replace collar ties. A collar tie is a tension tie in the upper third of opposing gable rafters that is intended to resist rafter separation from the ridge beam during periods of unbalanced loads, such as that caused by wind uplift, or unbalanced roof loads from snow.
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